My trip to Izhevsk

Today, at least as I write, is exactly twelve months since I arrived in Izhevsk. It seems an age, and is, since I left Russia. In the time since, I have spoken many times, to many people of my experience, but to this moment I have put nothing in writing. While most of this procrastination has been due to fitting back into my old routine, it was also because I didn’t want to put my thoughts on record while the experience was so fresh and vivid in my memory. Time (a lot of it) has passed, and though the experiences have lost none of their clarity, I believe that I can now write uninfluenced by emotion, on my time in the schools program. If time has, what has not passed, or faded, is a deep satisfaction. I have done many things, and traveled a great deal in my life, but the short period in the schools program stands out as one of my most rewarding experiences.

There is much I would like to say in this letter, but as I assume it will be read by others considering the program, I will write only of the things that concerned me when the thought of going to Russian first crossed my mind. For anything else, or if I can help anyone considering going to Izhevsk by trying to answer a question you have, please email me at caelin@dodo.com.au.

Of all my memories, first and above all I remember the Russian people, even those I met on the most casual basis, as friendly and generous. My host family made me very welcome, included me in their lives, and fed me to excess. To them my deepest thanks and everlasting gratitude. One day I shall repay your hospitality.

I attended my first language classes with some concern; I am not a teacher and my only real asset was the language I had spoken since childhood.

Those fears were soon eased as the students are eager to learn, and in fact were just as eager to teach me Russian.

The evening classes, generally about three plus hours, consisted of a volunteer talking to very small groups immediately after their actual lesson, these were informal and generally related to whatever had been the ‘theme’ taught before. Afterwards the students and volunteers went to another room where larger groups formed. I found these sessions very stimulating, with everything up for debate. There is nothing that we didn’t talk or joke about, including western preconceptions.

One misconception that I had when arriving was that a majority of students would be young people wanting to visit other countries. What I had not expected were parents learning English so that they could help and expand their children’s education. It embarrasses me to compare this to my experience in Australia, here foreign languages are taught in our schools, but I do not know of a single parent who has shown such obvious commitment.

It was devotion not wasted, as the children themselves are keen to learn. I saw many in the evening classes that I had seen during the day in school. I have no doubt that these young people will do well, and go far.

Both young and….. older, were the business people. Learning English so that they could access data or do business relevant to their careers. China was once referred to as the ‘sleeping tiger’, world economies are now seeing the tiger awake, what dynamics will unfold when the influence of the ‘sleeping bear’ reaches out from within its borders and spreads around the globe?.

Finally but by no means in any way the least were the schools.

The teacher, Tatiana is a wonderful person and I miss our brief ‘coffee breaks’. I thank her for her patience with my attempts at teaching, and for her friendship.

It is without doubt that the schools will stay in my mind for the rest of my life for I saw two qualities that humbled me, and I shall remember as my own lessons.

I met teachers so dedicated to their work that they accept wages that the government should be ashamed of. These are the people who shape the future of Russia, yet they are treated poorly for that.

The children were delightful and it gave me much pleasure working with them. Russia has many problems but I have nothing but hope for its future. How can I have any other certainty, for I have seen and met that budding generation

What else should I say?……One thing that concerned me was my grip on the Russian language, which could be summed up by saying zero, but if I can travel across Russia (of course with the help of Alla and Elena) then anyone can; but it is certainly an advantage to be able to speak a little Russian. Reading Cyrillic script is almost essential, but be aware that a straight phonetic translation, especially in place names doesn’t always result in the same word that a city is known by in the west.

That said even when shopping with my poor attempts at the language, shop assistants were mostly patient and helpful. I traveled the public transport system and walked the streets of Izhevsk at night, and often alone, with no feelings of fear or apprehension (something I would be reluctant to do in my own town), (I should also add here that my experiences in Moscow were not as good).

Traveling by train to Izhevsk was also my first introduction to Russian hospitality. I live in Australia so vast distances through apparently deserted land is nothing new, but to have total strangers take you into their group is. Conversation can be limited to grunts, nods and laughter but you will not go hungry or short of Vodka. A word of caution here, don’t completely finish any alcoholic drink you are given as it is considered bad manners to have a guest with an empty glass. A thin layer in the bottom is acceptable, but unless you have an iron constitution don’t try to keep up, as it seems that the average Russian just gets happier, whereas I slowly lost consciousness

Part of my ‘experience’ was to be in a different climate. And nothing can be much more removed from the tropical heat of my hometown to a Russian winter. I was in Izhevsk just before Christmas 2004, and experienced snow and cold that most people in my own town, or state, never have. I expected a lot of discomfort, but once kitted out with Russian clothes from a local market I was never cold. The home I lived in, the schools I visited, everywhere is kept warm and comfortable.

I really don’t know what else to write, yet there is so much that I could. The beauty of snow-draped forests, fishermen dotted across frozen lakes, industry next to living areas; towering blocks of flats interspaced with an abundance of tiny parks. Horse drawn sleighs and crowded trams. Russia filled all of my senses and penetrated my heart……. One day I shall return